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Knowledge is Power: Santa Fe Symposium® is All About Learning and Registration is Open Now!

October 15, 2014 by Viqui Sanchez Leave a Comment

For most people, May is all about the burgeoning spring, shaking off the last chills of winter and looking forward to the coming summer. For jewelry makers—from bench jewelers to manufacturers—May is all about the Santa Fe Symposium®, the premier conference on jewelry manufacturing technology. The brightest and most inquiring minds in the jewelry industry come together for this symposium in Albuquerque, New Mexico, for more than three days of learning, collaboration and inspiration. I urge you to make plans early to come and be part of it. And, in case you’re thinking to yourself, “Why would I go? It doesn’t sound like I’d get anything out of that…”, allow me to show you why the Symposium is the event for you.

2014-SFS-Juliet Hutton-Squire and Maia Adams

Juliet Hutton-Squire (right) and Maia Adams (left) of Adorn Insight present jewelry fashion trend research—no matter which facet of the industry holds your interest, the Symposium serves it.

Experts and innovators from around the world present their findings from the production, the research, the testing, the learning they’ve been focused on over the past year or more. Fellow experts, colleagues, and jewelry pros throughout the industry listen, ask questions, pose challenges, and generally bask in the know-how. Every person attending becomes immersed in all things jewelry-making—from designing to fabricating to manufacturing to running jewelry businesses of every description. No matter what you do within the jewelry industry, you will find precious nuggets of information that you can build on and apply to your business…and, just as important, your knowledge and experience will provide nuggets that others will seize and build upon. The energy is palpable and the benefit to each participant is incalculable.

The experience was amazing. Coming into [the Symposium], I was terrified. When I came in, there were friendly face, friendly eye contact. I walked away [afterward], instead of being intimidated, being empowered by a lot of the people here, being encouraged and having a sense of connection. —Hannah Leigh, Pearkissee Designs.

At meals, breaks, and throughout the day, SFS participants indulge in conversation about their passion for making jewelry.

At the Santa Fe Symposium®, your day begins with a bit of breakfast and conversations with other jewelers whose passion for their work brought them here just as yours brought you. Through the day, wide-ranging presentations draw you into one discussion after another, getting you thinking. You’ll have time to think over and talk about what you’ve heard during breaks for stretching your legs and while enjoying meals. At the end of the day, you gather for a delicious dinner and some fun with friends, new and old. A restful night’s sleep and you do it again—only better. By the end of the Symposium, you’ve gained:

KNOWLEDGE

Presenters at the Symposium share information, insights and know-how openly, giving you the kind of access that’s impossible to find anywhere else. The learning opportunities are endless and deepen exponentially through discussions and conversations about how these insights and cutting-edge research affect your industry.
PROBLEM-SOLVING

Take what you learn, add your own experience and know-how to bring fresh ideas to the discussion and to formulate strategies that can address your challenges back home. At the Symposium, you’ll be surrounded by people who face some of the same challenges you do.
IDEA SHARING

What started in Santa Fe, New Mexico, in 1987, inspired by a profound lack of available information in the field of jewelry manufacturing, has developed organically into a forum that is without equal. And, at its heart, is the idea that sharing ideas is the greatest impetus there is for professional development and innovation. The knowledge that the whole truly is greater than individual parts are on their own drives the event year after year.

The greatest value is talking to people, talking to speakers. And at the dinners, when you’re talking much more in detail, apart from the presentation. There is no other place in the world where there is this concentration. Are you in the field? Then here you have to come. —Damiano Zito, Progold S.p.A.
PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL NETWORKING

Santa Fe Symposium attracts jewelers and non-jewelers, too, from far and wide, creating a one-of-a-kind pool of like-minded jewelry professionals and artists. The shared experiences at the Symposium create bonds that hold firm beyond these three days, that carry over from one year to the next. And with the immediacy of the internet and social media, keeping those bonds strong and growing has never been easier.
THE SAUL BELL DESIGN AWARD COMPETITION AWARDS DINNER

Called “a beautiful mashup” by Rio Grande President Alan Bell, the juxtaposition of the premier conference on jewelry technology (the Symposium) and the celebration of distinction in jewelry design (the Saul Bell Design Award competition) galvanized both groups as they came together for the first time in 2014. It was such a success that the events will once again “rub shoulders,” as Alan puts it, with the winners of the design event being honored on opening night of the Symposium and the Symposium members welcoming the Saul Bell Award winners as attendees to the conference.

In Q&A sessions, presenters answer questions and foster discussion about their topics.

For 2015, presentation topics range from methods for blackening silver to internet marketing to investment casting of titanium to digital design to brand building—it’s all here and there will be a great deal that could directly benefit you and your business. So decide now and plan early to take full advantage of this year’s powerhouse of ideas. If you are a lifelong learner (and how can we succeed if we’re not?) who works to ride the crest of the fast-moving pace of your industry, there is no question…the Santa Fe Symposium® is for you.

Focusing on Facets: A Photography Primer for Jewelry Artists with Jim Lawson

August 8, 2014 by Laura Marrich Leave a Comment

Jim Lawson teaching a photography class during Rio’s Summer Workshop Series. Photo by James Gros.

Look at the liquid-silver sheen radiating off of one of Jim Lawson’s photographs, and you can almost feel the cool weight of metal resting on your skin. His stones and gems appear lit from within, luminous and breathing like aurora borealis in miniature.

More than a static image, each piece that Lawson shoots becomes alive under the careful gaze of his camera lens. And the longer you look, the more your eye discovers. These aren’t just photographs—they’re practically animated films! How does Lawson manage to pick up these kinetic qualities with his camera?

“When I photograph a piece, I pay a great deal of attention to how the light flows across the piece,” Lawson tells Rio’s Blog. “And I also pay a great deal of attention to the tonality in the background in the shadows that are cast upon it. How you treat the background is just as important as how you treat the piece.”

Another important element of Lawson’s work is that he uses a digital camera instead of traditional film.

“Putting myself in the place of a jewelry artist, I can’t imagine wanting to shoot film, given how good digital has become,” he says. After the shoot is over, photo-editing software takes digital images to the next level. “For me, Photoshop is a very integral part of the process, especially with the gems,” he says.

It also doesn’t hurt that Lawson has been at it for 35 years, photographing and teaching art professionally while racking up covers on Jewelry Artist/Lapidary Journal and Step-by-Step Wire magazines.

For jewelry artists, stepping behind a camera to document a finished piece can be disorienting. And talk about pressure! Without a quality image, even the most creative and well-finished piece will look, well, lackluster.

“There are several things that make shooting jewelry difficult,” Lawson concedes. “First is the small size. Second, you can have a piece that has a multiplicity of different reflective surfaces, which all require different treatments for lighting. And there are some pieces that require styling and that can get to be very tedious and time-consuming.”

Jim Lawson: Jewelry &emdash; By Jacob Albee

Jim’s photography has a weighty, beautifully balanced feel. Cuff created by jeweler Jacob Albee and image taken for Jewelry Artist magazine.

But with the proper equipment and attitude, even a novice photographer can capture the opulent beauty of gemstones and jewelry. “One of the things that I emphasize to the artists in my workshop is having the right equipment so that you can work quickly,” he says. “You want to be able to spend your time making jewelry and using a minimum amount of time to do quality photographic work.”

Jim Lawson’s Top 10 Tips for Photographing Jewelry

Lawson taught a sold-out class on Photography Basics for Jewelry Artists as part of Rio’s 2014 Summer Workshop Series.

“I really enjoy teaching photography. And I really enjoy teaching it to jewelry artists,” Lawson says. “Many of them can’t justify hiring someone to do their photography for them, so I do my best to give them the tools they need to do their own photography.”

If you weren’t one of the lucky people sitting in the room this July, you can still benefit from Lawson’s wisdom. He agreed to share some of his favorite pieces of advice right here with Rio’s Blog.

“Obviously, photography has become more and more important to the jewelry artist,” he says, “so I try and teach things that will make the process go as quickly as possible and get high-quality results.”

Jim Lawson: Jewelry &emdash; By Bill Fretz for Interweav

Fretz cuff shot by Lawson. Image taken for Jewelry Artist magazine.

Take a (Three-legged) Stand
“Invest in a good tripod. It’s very difficult to shoot good photos of jewelry without one.”
Style with Care
“Pay very close attention to how you style and layout a piece. This is where the tripod comes in. It’s much easier to style a difficult piece if the camera is in place and on a tripod.”
Start Clean
“Make sure that your backgrounds and jewelry are clean. It’s much easier to clean the jewelry and background before you start shooting them.”
Be Insensitive
“Use the lowest ISO [light sensitivity] setting your camera has. That way you get the most quality your camera is capable of.”
Shoot in the Raw
“Shoot raw files if your camera will allow. It will give you more flexibility and ultimately a higher-quality image in post-production.”
Max Out on Quality
“Choose the highest image quality your camera will allow, whether you are shooting raw files or JPEGs. You can’t go back and make things larger after you have moved on to the next photo. But you can always make things smaller. Always keep the original file intact.”
Kill the Vibe
“Use a remote release or the self-timer on your camera when making exposures. Vibration is the enemy of sharpness.”
Stick with the Kit Lens…for Now
“If you buy a new camera, start out with the kit lens that comes with it first. It will probably do most everything that you need. Then you can decide if you need an additional macro lens or two.”
Pick with Precision
“Keep a dental pick or some other similar small device handy to move gangly parts of the jewelry around.”
Just Breathe
“Be patient.”

Explore Jim Lawson’s catalog of eye-popping photography at his website, Jim Lawson Photography. Get more personal insights and information on upcoming workshops on his blog, Jim Lawson Jewelry Photography.

Hammers Demystified: A Tour of Jewelry-Making Hammers and Their Many Uses

June 30, 2014 by Yvonne M. Padilla Leave a Comment

Forming, riveting, raising, chasing, goldsmith’s, texturing—so many hammers for jewelers to use (the list goes on and on)! Here at Rio, we L-O-V-E hammers. We love them so much that we stock well over 100 hammers and hammer kits.

Left to right: Rawhide Mallet, Brass Mallet, Fretz Jeweler’s Planishing Hammer, Fretz Silversmith Wide Raising Hammer, Fretz Janus Hammer

With such a wide range of choices, how do you know which hammer or mallet to use? In the video below, Mark Nelson discusses the different hammer types and styles. Take a look to see if the hammer you’ve been wondering about is featured.

The Rio Grande website has even more information about choosing and using hammers. Need a quick reference guide on the definitions of hammers? Check out our list: How To Pick the Right Jewelry Hammer. Is the head of your favorite, reliable old hammer coming loose? Check out our website to learn how to fix loose hammer heads. Want to see some hammers in action? We have plenty more hammer videos.

Do you have a favorite hammer? Share a story, photo, or project made with one of the most beloved tools on the jeweler’s bench!

In the Spotlight: John Sartin’s Natural World

February 4, 2013 by Heather Apodaca Leave a Comment

Mokume gane, 14K & 18K gold, sterling silver and sapphire pendant

John Sartin’s intricate, finely formed pieces are wearable art inspired by nature. I love the detail and thought that goes into each and every one of his designs. He’s a native of Albuquerque, New Mexico (Rio’s beloved hometown) and recently answered a few of my questions about his work, his inspiration, and his new book, The Complete Photo Guide to Making Metal Jewelry.

Heather Apodaca: How did you get started as a jeweler?

John Sartin: I started working with my hands at a young age by working on cars and eventually joined the Navy as a jet mechanic. During college, I enrolled in Metals 101 taught by Julie Jerman-Melka, an amazing metalsmith, and I knew I had finally found what I had been looking for.

By then I was frustrated and tired of school. So I walked away from formal training and started to learn things on my own through books and trial and error. In 2002 I quit my job and moved back to Albuquerque. In 2004 I started a new life as an artist and gypsy of the show circuits.

HA: How would you describe your work?

JS: Unique heirloom-quality designs expressed through traditional techniques.

HA: Where do you look for inspiration in creating new work?

Mokume gane, sterling silver, fine silver, and spinel pendant

JS: Nature is a big inspiration in my work, as well as using traditional techniques in unexpected ways. I love to make designs that challenge people’s perceptions. For example torch firing enamels to make something resembling old ivory.

HA: Do you have a favorite material to work with?

JS: At one time I would have said fine silver or high karat gold, but I have recently developed a love affair with mokumé gane, not only the metal but the entire process from scratch.

HA: How about a favorite tool?

JS: That’s hard, kind of like choosing a favorite child. I will give you my top 3: My granulation cutter, my hammers and most recently my Fretz stake set.

HA: What is currently on your bench?

JS: It’s mostly cluttered with an inventory of current series in various forms of completion for upcoming shows, but in the corner under the sketch book is the beginnings of a new line in progress.

Sterling silver, 14K gold and pink star sapphire pendant

HA: You wrote a book. Congratulations! Can you tell us a little about it and how it came to be?

JS: This project came to me a year ago through a recommendation from Lexi Erickson, who is a contributing editor for Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist (thanks again, Lexi).

The book is titled The Complete Photo Guide to Making Metal Jewelry and will hit bookstore shelves in April. It is comprised of step-by-step, up-close photographs and concise instruction that will not overwhelm the beginner with technical terms and concepts. It is focused at anyone who wants to learn how to make handcrafted jewelry with minimal tools or may just want to learn a new technique.

Although there are many, many more advanced techniques that are not covered in this book, those that are covered will give the reader a good foundation to build on. There are 10 projects included (ring, pendants, pins, necklace) that all use the techniques presented in the book, as well as an inspirational gallery of some of the top metalsmiths in the field.

Make sure you check out John’s Bamboo series and Erosion series, on his website, johnsartindesigns.com.

Rio Grande’s Annual “What Was Your Favorite Purchase” and Giveaway Post!

January 17, 2013 by Shelby Chant 87 Comments

[Editor’s Note]

Congratulations to Dianne Grant from Nova Scotia, who reviewed our AdvantEdge Silicone Polishing Kit (check out what she had to say). She chose to receive the our Crafted Findings Long-Reach Riveting System (which is super cool, I’ve tried it out for a belt project).
Gotta say, we just loved hearing your stories about products and gifts and random “finds” and what they’ve done for you as a jeweler. More contest to come….and as always, Happy Creating!

Every January, we ask fellow jewelers what their favorite jewelry-making purchase was for the previous year. Sometimes, it’s a hammer or a saw; other times it’s an iPad for designing, diamonds for setting, even a ladder for building a new studio (see 2011’s picks). Check out 2012’s list of favorite purchases…and there’s an awesome giveaway at the end!

The question asked of some of our jeweler friends and Facebook followers?

“What was the absolute favorite product that you purchased in 2012?” (intentionally a bit open-ended, open to interpretation, open to clever responses, truthful confessions, product promotion, self-promotion, sarcasm, or just the facts.)

Ashli Brooke Taylor

(Maverick artisan, instructor, member of Rio Grande Tech Team)

[L to R] Ashli’s (and just about everyone’s) new best friend, the Swanstrom disc cutter; Ashli’s kickin’ V.I.C. 12; Ashli’s beautiful new Bonny Doon urethane hammer.

I had several amazing purchases in 2012! New house, a new car, a new puppy, and a ton of new tools! To pick a favorite tool is incredibly hard, it’s a toss-up between the Swanstrom disc cutter, the Bonny Doon urethane hammer and my V.I.C. 12. The disc cutter has saved me so much time and cuts perfectly every time. The Bonny Doon hammer has allowed me to make hoop earrings very easily and fast. And the V.I.C. 12 is just an amazing beast of a machine that will help me start mass-producing my designs a lot easier.

[Editor’s Note: There are a few spots left for Ashli’s E-Coating class during our Winter Workshops!]

Ricky Frank

(Master enamelist, instructor, all-around cool guy)

The Dino-Lite video microscope…great for teaching!

The microscopic camera I bought. I’d been looking for one for years, and after teaching at Rio in September and using theirs with my classes, I knew how to use one and what to look for [Ricky was using the Dino-Lite Video Microscope in class].

Now I have my own and travel with a camera, laptop and monitor so students can easily see what I’m doing when I demo tiny techniques. I’ll hopefully figure out how to put together the footage I’ve been recording for both pre- and post-workshops to make students’ learning experiences even better!

Kate Wolf

(Educator, jeweler, hilarious tool maven)

Kate’s new Dura-BULL bench dust collection system…keepin’ EVERYTHING clean.

The Dura-BULL bench dust collection system — it was a treat to finish dozens of castings and not look like a coal miner (and no black boogies!).

Lauren Tobey

(Metalsmith, instructor, owner of Meltdown Studio)

Lauren Tobey with her beloved polishing unit.

My magnetic polishing unit! My only regret? That I didn’t purchase it WAY sooner! This little polishing unit has saved me many hours of work. I used to spend lots of time hand-cleaning the investment out of my cast pieces, now I just toss them in my magnetic polishing unit, and they come out with no investment anywhere! The magnetic tumbling medium reaches even the smallest of areas, breaking up investment, and leaving metal clean and ready to finish. Also, for smaller tumbling jobs (just a piece, or a few components) this unit is perfect, instead of pulling out the large tumbler. It is compact and powerful, and makes my job much, much easier!

Barbara Becker Simon

(Award-winning designer, cool chick, amazing PMC instructor…I speak from experience here)

I have been collecting tools and supplies since I took my first college jewelry class in 1966. There isn’t much that I don’t already have or want! Hah! I did buy some transparent silicone mold material in liquid form to pour some molds of polymer clay forms. I quite liked the results—much easier than the two-part mold material that one mixes with one’s hands. Of course, like everyone else, I bought an iPad this year and it is a boon for the artist. If you are showing pictures they are much better viewed and I also use it for my “Square” credit card thingy.

Sessin Durgham

(award-winning designer, metalsmith, beloved Rio Tech Team member….and hilarious as ever)

[L to R] The new Fretz sledge forging hammer, designed for a jeweler’s work, next to Sessin’s original (still so-very-cool) blacksmith’s hammer. Sessin using his Christmas gift from Bill: New Fretz sledge forging hammer (#112-656) available in just days on riogrande.com!). Seriously, a dream tool.

A Christmas gift from Bill Fretz! His new ‘Sledge’ forging hammer (#112-656…available from Rio in a week or so!). Finally, a heavy forging hammer designed by Bill Fretz for the jeweler. It is 800 grams of ergonomic perfection and a curvilinear masterpiece. The smallish convex head exacts focused energy on the hitting surface and allows a great view of the moving metal. The cross-peen side is curved toward the user and the handle forces you to choke up for amazing control. This heavy hitter is a game-changer and has a light feel for a heavy hitter.

Phillip Scott

(Instructor, Laser Dude, Rio Tech Team member)

Phil’s new Meiji microscope system

I have to admit that I am getting older, though I don’t want to. My eyes ain’t what they used to be. Well, I got a Meiji microscope this year to do some stone-setting and engraving…I didn’t realize what I have been missing. What a fantastic tool. The zoom is incredible and the clarity of detail, fantastic. Of course, then all I wanted for Christmas was a new table-top laser welder, but my wife says she isn’t giving up her easy chair because we have no place else to put more tools.

Bill Fretz

(Tool designer, instructor, craftsman)

[Left] The original M-113 stake. [Right] The re-shaped fluted version of the M-113 for hammering flutes around a bracelet.

My favorite tool experience of 2012 was to take one of our new M-100 Series stakes, the M-113, and re-grind it into a new shape. The new form of the stake makes it possible to hammer flutes into a cylinder or bracelet shape so that the flutes encircle the form rather than being vertical. Our original fluting stakes, F-2A and C, were designed to make vertical freeform flutes and don’t work the same as this new design. It’s a new option and was such a simple solution for shapes that usually require chasing with pitch.

This technique works with bold shapes and may still require chasing if you desire fine detail. The hammers used were the HMR-8 Rounded Narrow Embossing hammer and the HMR-9 Wide Rounded Embossing hammer. The new fluting stake is the pointed version of the M-113 on the right.

And check out all the replies we got on Facebook!

So now, it’s giveaway time!

We’d love to know what your favorite jewelry-making purchase was for 2012…tools, inspirations, spaces, what-have-you. Share here on the blog; and, if it was a product you purchased from Rio, review the product on our website and just use the word FAVORITE in caps somewhere in your review…we’ll randomly select a reviewer next Monday (January 21) who will get to choose one of the awesome products below to add to their bench!

Prodigy Flex Shaft System

Friedrich Dick Needle File Set

Knew Concepts Jeweler’s 5″ Hand Saw Frame

Crafted Findings Riveting System

Blazer Butane Torch

Max Wax Pen Carving Kit

Dura-BULL Rotary Tumbler

NOTE: The winner will be chosen from the FAVORITE reviews we receive on riogrande.com….but your fellow blog readers would love to hear about your favorite purchase, so comment on the blog, too!

What Are You Working on Now? Show Us What’s on Your Bench AND Enter Our January Contest!

October 24, 2012 by Molly Therese Bell 5 Comments

It’s that time again, folks! Each month we love to take a look into your studios, see images of your works-in-progress, and hear about the evolution of your pieces. Each month we also feature the work of a random winner — who, in addition to getting a moment in the spotlight, wins a $10 Rio credit!

We saw some wonderful stuff this month, including edgy skull and heart jewelry for the biker crowd, exciting examples of hand-engraved, Kliar E-Coating pieces, and Paul, the World Cup Octopus. Check out the comments to see for yourself!

This month’s randomly-chosen winner is Laura Brubaker. Take a look:

I am working on my first ever production line of pumpkin leaf jewelry. In the foreground you can see the ones I am currently working on and in the tray on the left the completed ones. The tray on the right holds some of the other ideas I have been playing with. I am fold forming the leaves which I learned to do from the Rio video with Mark Nelson, forging the stem into a taper, and forming the shape of the leaf over Fretz stakes. I hope you like them!

Another leaf piece from Laura’s Etsy store.

We DO like them, Laura! Congratulations. To see more of Laura’s work, check out her blog or her Etsy Store.

Now it’s your turn to show us what you’re working on. What inspires you these days? What materials are you dying to work with? Add a comment to this post with photos of something that’s on your bench right now. This next part is REALLY important, so take notes!
We need the following information in order for your entry to be considered:

Your full name (and a link to your website/Etsy store, if you like)
A photo of your chosen project. Include a few photos if you like!
A description of the project you’re featuring. If you can include a little about your approach or technique, even better! Your fellow jewelers LOVE to read this stuff and so do we.
After you add your comment, be sure to check back and make sure your photo has uploaded as it should. We don’t want to miss your pic!

Enter and you might be spending an extra 10 bucks at Rio Grande this time next month. Our next winner will be announced in January 2013 –so you have a couple months to show us your stuff! Andy, over at Rio’s facebook page will keep you posted on the deadline, so stay tuned!

What Are You Working on Now? Show Us What’s on Your Bench AND Enter Our September Contest!

August 30, 2012 by Molly Therese Bell 12 Comments

What inspires you these days? What materials are you dying to work with? Each month we love to peek into your studios, see images of your works-in-progress, and hear about the evolution of your work. Each month we also feature the work of a random winner — who, in addition to getting a moment in the spotlight, wins a $10 Rio credit!

Our entries this month were, as usual, very interesting. They included a red rubber necklace with silver beads and some funky-looking — yet elegant — rings designed to help with nervous habits (like nail-biting and knuckle-cracking). Check out the comments to see for yourself!

This month’s winner is Melicia Phillips of Providence, RI who made a lovely filigree cuff. Take a look:

Hello, I am Melicia Phillips, an amateur jewelry artist living in Providence RI. As usual, I am working on a Russian filigree project. This month it’s a silver cuff. The pictures shown here show the construction of the frame through the polished stage. I depletion guilded it and then used my Fretz stakes to give it a convex curve and form it into the cuff.

I left lots of space between the frame wires, making it very difficult to fill, but I like the airy look of more filler wire and less frame wire.

Thanks for the blog!

Congratulations Melicia! To see more of her work, check out Melicia’s Facebook page and her Etsy store, M50Jewelry. You can also catch her on Twitter: @M50Jewelry.

Now it’s your turn to show us what you’re working on. Add a comment to this post with photos of something that’s on your bench right now. This next part is REALLY important, so take notes!
We need the following information in order for your entry to be considered:

Your full name (and a link to your website/Etsy store, if you like)
A photo of your chosen project. Include two or three photos if you like!
A description of the project you’re featuring. If you can include a little about your approach or technique, even better! Your fellow jewelers LOVE to read this stuff and so do we.
After you add your comment, be sure to check back and make sure your photo has uploaded as it should. We don’t want to miss your pic!

Enter and you might be spending an extra 10 bucks at Rio Grande this time next month. We’ll announce our next winner in late September! Andy, over at Rio’s facebook page will keep you posted on the deadline, so stay tuned!

Lisa Rouse: How a Trip To the Library Launched a Career

October 12, 2011 by Mike Schelle 1 Comment

Lisa Rouse (Etsy store “Swallowtail Studio”) is a great example of how far one trip to the library can go. The flourishing designer and jewelry artist began four years ago with a simple beading book from her library and a tube of beads. Some interests, though, have a way of snowballing. When a good friend and goldsmith got word of her new hobby, Lisa was invited to learn a thing or two about metal forming.

“I jumped at the chance,” she said. “It was exciting to work with a torch and hammers to transform a simple piece of wire into a beautiful sterling silver twist bracelet. I was hooked!”

Lisa continued learning with the help of her mentor, and was soon taking classes at a local art gallery. Her latest jewelry interest? Lapidary and inlay work.

“My work incorporates sterling silver and semi-precious stones. Some of my favorite stones are coral, turquoise, onyx and the many varieties of jasper. The palette of stones and colors is amazing.” Color is a big theme for Lisa; travels to Spain, Peru and her hometown area of upstate New York keep her idea book filled with visions of red, green, yellow, brown and more. “No matter where I am, everywhere I look, I see colors, textures, patterns, curving shapes that I love to incorporate into each piece I craft. I’m inspired to create pieces that will last a lifetime and beyond.”

Lisa is showing no signs of slowing down, having recently purchased Foldforming by Charles Lewton-Brain and our Basic Jewelry Hammering and Forming DVD by Bill Fretz. She’s also not finished with her inlay work and will take a tube-setting seminar in the next few months. As we leave you with some of Lisa’s work described in her own words, think about how far you could go these next few years with just a little bit of new knowledge…and it could start with a simple trip to the library!

Coral Necklace: This is my favorite piece. I love the coral cabochon. It is set in a hand-fabricated sterling silver bezel setting. A green turquoise and coral necklace accents the piece.

Peanut Wood Earrings: Two mirror image peanut wood cabochons are set in sterling silver. The cabochons are like little landscapes. The simple setting lets the stones be the star.

Turquoise and Carnelian Necklace: A Chinese turquoise cabochon is set in a textured sterling silver bezel setting. I created the texture by using a rolling mill. A carnelian cabochon adds contrast to the piece.

Marcia Weaver: 2011 Ganoksin Raffle Winner

July 15, 2011 by Molly Therese Bell 1 Comment

Each year, the Ganoksin Project hosts a raffle fundraiser that supports the jewelry and metal arts industry worldwide. Rio Grande values Ganoksin’s contribution to the industry and we show our support of their mission by offering two $5,000 Rio Grande shopping sprees as prizes. All raffle proceeds go directly to support Ganoksin Project and Orchid, a jewelry industry forum which supports the exchange of free information for all.

Marcia Weaver at her bench

Marcia Weaver of Walnut Creek, CA was one of two Ganoksin raffle winners this year and I recently contacted her to find out a little about Marcia–Ganoksin supporter and lucky winner!

Molly T. Bell: Tell us a little about your history and what led you to jewelry making.

Marcia Weaver: I am a metalsmith—with a past. A lot of past. The first 17 years of it were spent in Southern New Mexico, the next four at the University of Arizona, and the remainder in California. None of my education included metalsmithing or art.

I taught elementary school, opened a couple of little stores, consulted in business training and development, and was an adjunct professor for management development. I raised two children and have four grown granddaughters. Now I’m playing with fire, metal and hammers and totally enjoying myself.

I strive to infuse some of that joy and fascination into each piece of jewelry that goes out to my customers. We all need more moments of joy.

MTB: How do you approach design? Share something about your creative process.

MW: I am a voracious reader of metalwork publications and websites, so I’m sure that every piece I see in these and on the people with whom I come in contact remains in my subconscious. I think my design approach is a version of “chaos theory” meaning that I often work on many things at the same time with lots of pieces at different stages. I might take something from each piece and create an entirely new piece.

Most of my inspiration comes from the materials: silver, gold, and copper when touched by fire and hammers, and the stones—the beautiful, natural stones.

MTB: Since natural stones play such a big role in your creations, can you tell us about a stone that really speaks to you?

Marcia’s stones, “guide her to see the finished piece”

MW: That’s an interesting question because sometimes I feel so close to the materials, it does seem that they tell me how to proceed. I have many stones waiting to speak but one I love, in particular, is a gorgeous triangle-shaped jasper with colors that go from shades of green to brownish orange to cream.

MTB: What is your favorite creation to date?

Ammonite and Coral Fossils, Gold-Fill, Sterling on Copper Neck Ring

The copper neck ring is finished with a fused fine silver chain and a handmade hook.

MW: The fossils in this pendant are thousands of years old and are set in oxidized sterling and 14K gold-fill. The larger stone is ammonite and the small stone is fossilized coral. Everyone—really, everyone—who has seen it has gasped, “Oh!” Some have said it is stunning. It began with the creation of three separate, yet related, pieces.

This piece looks ancient and handmade. And, if I do say so myself, it is quite wonderful!

MTB: Have you had any instructors who have been instrumental to your growth?

MW: I began with beading and then took a one-day silver-fusing course with Steven James. In his class I became fascinated by fusing silver.

We are fortunate in Walnut Creek to have an exceptional Civic Arts Education program, which offers classes year round. Students come from all over the East Bay to take these classes from excellent instructors. Our jewelry fabrication classes are always full. The jewelry instructor is Karen Ehrhardt, an accomplished jewelry artist herself and an instructor with extraordinary patience.

Marcia with her teacher Karen Ehrhardt at Walnut Creek Civic Arts

MTB: Tell me what metalsmiths you admire.

MW: Charles Lewton-Brain is one since I am fascinated by fold forming and because I won this raffle by purchasing his book on the Ganoksin website! Others would include Lexi Erickson because I read everything she writes in Lapidary Journal and would include my friend and instructor Karen Ehrhardt, also. These artists all amaze me with their skill.

At the top of this list is Harold O’Connor whose Surface Embellishment class I was privileged to attend the last week of June during Idyllwild Metals Week in Southern California. Being in his class and having daily access to his skill was the best possible metalsmithing experience I could imagine. I expect my work to show growth as a result of this exposure. If you’d like to read more about my Idyllwild experience, I shared a more detailed account and pictures on my blog.

The Metals Week participants also had some access to five other outstanding artist/instructors which created an environment of total immersion in metal arts. That, along with clean air, tall trees, no television, and very little cell phone service provided a perfect atmosphere for creative renewal.

MTB: That sounds lovely! Can you share a favorite bit of advice you gleaned from your time there?

MW: “Firescale is my friend”—Harold O’Connor. This was a freeing thing for me to hear from such an accomplished artist. I have always resisted highly polishing most pieces because I just don’t like the appearance. I knew I was in the right place when Harold said that.

MTB: What tools/supplies have you bought or do you plan to buy with your Ganoksin Rio Grande gift certificate?

MW: I purchased many useful tools from Rio previous to winning the raffle but now I am selecting some special tools that will really allow me to expand my skills. I’m fascinated with beautiful Fretz hammers and have just purchased my first forming stakes along with my first flexshaft.

The thing that no one tells you when you begin metalsmithing is that you can purchase good tools that are easier on your body than cheap tools. A well-balanced hammer with a great handle and a flexshaft are worth the investment!

MTB: How do you market your work?

MW: I have an Etsy shop called “Fused n Twisted” that’s a lot of fun and my earnings allow me to replenish my supplies on a regular basis. It’s fun to list an item and see what response I get. I enjoy the business side of the shop also and the immediate contact with my customers on a personal level. I’m able to enjoy that without the huge financial expense of a brick and mortar shop.

I would love to have you visit my blog: www.fusedntwisted.blogspot.com. Visitors’ comments and suggestions are welcome.

Fold-Forming Video with Mark Nelson: Using the Rueger Fold to Create 3-D Forms

June 1, 2011 by Spencer Baum 10 Comments

In the following video Mark Nelson demonstrates the use of a simple fold-forming technique to create a sculptural three-dimensional form in silver:

Would you like to experiment with fold forming and try your hand at the project featured in the video? Following is a list of supplies and a step-by-step guide:

Items used during this segment:

6″ Argentium® 930 Silver sheet, 24ga	103-224
.999 fine silver sheet (6” x 2″), 26 ga., dead soft	101-926
Fretz Silversmith’s narrow raising hammer	112-463
Friedrich Dick flat hand file	114-702
Friedrich Dick half-round ring hand file	114-706
Bench knife	114-157
Fumasi shears	111-249
Butane refill cartridge	500-181
Blazer butane torch	500-230
Rawhide mallet	112-215
Safety glasses	201-054
Anvil	113-812
Solderite™ board	502-063
Brass brush	113-172
Foldforming by Charles Lewton-Brain	550-854
Tweezers, Fiber-grip, cross-lock	115-051
Sharpie® marker	—
Soft tool (chopstick)	—
Tongs	—
Ruler	—

Steps:

Preparing the fine silver sheet:

Using an annealed 2″ x 3″ piece of 24- or 26-gauge metal, fold it in half the long way over the edge of a table or anvil.
With the metal folded, hammer the piece flat with a rawhide mallet or nylon hammer.
Draw an arc along the open length of your folded metal with a Sharpie® marker (see right). Cut along the marking with shears.

Forging:

Lay the piece of folded metal along the anvil so the drawn arc is facing inward.
Using the small, narrow side of a cross-peen hammer, strike the folded edge of the metal at a 90° angle and overlap each blow. Starting in the middle and moving toward the end of the piece, hammer the folded metal about half-way across (don’t strike the interior edge). Turn the piece once and repeat this process on the other side of the folded metal.
Once the metal curls up a bit at the ends, flatten the piece by using a regular hammer.

Annealing:

Please Note: Wear safety glasses. Using a butane torch, fire the piece on a Solderite™ board until it reaches a dull shade of red, except when using 22KY gold-bonded Argentium® (refer to the instructions for annealing Argentium®, available from Rio Grande Technical Support or at our website).
Let the piece cool and then quench it in water.

Completing the process:

Repeat all the above steps on the same piece until you have achieved a curl to your liking.
Insert a knife blade into the metal’s gap where the opening of the fold occurs.
With a soft tool such as a chopstick, widen the opening until you can no longer fit the tool inside the gap.
To add more dimension or “puffiness” to your piece, use your fingers to twist and bend the curl inward.

If you like to explore fold forming in greater depth, be sure to check out Charles Lewton-Brain’s beautiful book on the subject. Also, be sure to share your fold-forming adventures with us!

Rio’s One-And-Only Sessin Durgham

January 3, 2011 by Shelby Chant 6 Comments

Sessin with his “Silent Hammer”

Sessin Durgham joined Rio’s Technical Support team in 2006. Prior to that, he worked for five years as a retail bench jeweler making custom designs and has spent the past 27 years attending juried art shows, teaching forging workshops, and selling his wares (or taking home awards for them).

Besides being a 2002 Saul Bell Design Award competition winner, Sessin received the Platinum Honor, part of the prestigious AGTA Spectrum Awards. He has also exhibited at the Festival of the Masters, an exclusive outdoor art show in Orlando reserved for only the country’s top artists.

Sessin gets the royal treatment at the Festival of the Masters.

As impressive a metalsmith and artist as Sessin is, it’s his contagious passion for jewelry-making and his eagerness to help others that make him an indelible part of Rio. If you’ve called us asking for technical support on forging, soldering, or stone setting, or if you’ve encountered someone on our live chat who was unusually enthusiastic about hammers, you were probably chatting with Sessin.

The Tool Tester

“Just days after joining the company, Sessin approached me and asked why we didn’t carry a 35-pound anvil and, more importantly, how quickly could I get him one,” says Bench Tools Buyer, Spencer Baum. “His enthusiasm for metal-forming tools has led to quite a few new additions to our product line, from larger Peddinghaus hammers to more forming stakes to every single item on page 107 of our 2010 Tools & Equipment catalog.” (You know you have to take a look! Oddly enough, he had a strong influence on page 107 of the upcoming 2011 catalog as well!)

In supplying Sessin with the tools that he needs to design, research, and test, we know that the happy result will be that we end up offering great tools to our customers. Suffice it to say, Spencer makes sure that Sessin gets his hands on whatever he wants to test out next.

Sessin at his desk. Note the collection of Fretz hammers in the window. He’s a Fretz hammer junky.

The Storyteller

“I think of Sessin as my crazy uncle who has a story for everything,” says fellow jeweler, Yvonne M. Padilla. “Sometimes, at first, the stories don’t make sense. But somehow they end up looping back to the original conversation, and almost always with a hilarious ending. It’s quite dizzying.” Yvonne and Sessin have worked side-by-side in Tech Support for several years now. “Putting aside the quirky storytelling, he is an amazing jeweler. In just the few years I’ve known him, he has taught me so much. He’s a wonderful artist and a true friend.”

The Poet

“Because we both went to Northern Arizona University and studied under the same professor, I instantly felt a connection with Sessin,” says jeweler and teammate, Mark Nelson. “And I do think he is a little crazy, but in that brilliant artist way.”

Sessin having just returned from the 2010 SNAG Gallery Tour. It was windy that night.

“This one time at the SNAG Conference in Memphis,” Mark remembers, “Sessin wanted some real Southern food. He asked the locals where to go, and we ended up taking a 30-minute cab ride to the outskirts of town. By the end of the ride, the driver and Sessin were good friends and we got to see quite a bit of the town (the food was indeed as great as every one said it would be!). Sessin possesses that wonderful quality of making friends wherever he goes. A kinder more caring person would be hard to find, especially one who is such a great poet.” Take a look for yourself…

The Silent Hammer by Sessin
A silent hammer,
A thousand tear
They lie in storage
Too many a year.

Waiting for that glorious day
When smith and iron come out to play.

The ringing of iron
The hissing of steam
Harassing jostles
Of metal on thing.

That day will wait another year
When smith and hammer come out to play.

As for me, I first met Sessin in Las Vegas during his photo shoot for the 2002 Saul Bell Design Award competition, years before he joined Rio. In walked this humble, quiet soul with a huge smile and crazy hair.

Sessin at his Saul Bell Design Award photo shoot, Las Vegas.

I interviewed our winners that year, so I got to hear what made Sessin tick: “building stuff,” (he loved building models as a kid), “experimenting with silver, making it sculptural and heavy,” (that would explain the hammer obsession), and always striving to “make something simple and humble, but memorable.” I got to know him as a designer back then; now I get to work with him and see how he influences and helps other jewelers.

He is a treasure, our Sessin. And whether he’s designing award-winning jewelry, talking to (and entertaining) a customer through a jewelry challenge, or cracking up a co-worker, Sessin makes a memorable mark on every person he meets, hammer in hand.